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Needles, thread and hoops

Needles are sized in pairs such as 80/12: the European size is the blade diameter in hundredths of a millimeter, the US size is the second number. Thread weight runs the other way: the higher the number, the finer the thread.

Needle sizes
60/8 fine to 110/18 heavy
Embroidery thread
40 wt on top, 60 wt in the bobbin

Pick the needle type by fabric and the size by weight. Universal needles suit most wovens, ballpoint needles push between knit loops instead of piercing them, and Jeans, Microtex, Leather, Quilting, Embroidery, Metallic and Topstitch needles each solve one problem. The needle and thread finder does the matching for you.

For thread, 50 wt polyester is the all-purpose choice for garments and knits, and 50 wt cotton is the usual choice for quilt piecing. Embroidery uses 40 wt rayon or polyester with a lighter 60 wt bobbin thread. Heavier topstitching thread needs a topstitch needle with a larger eye.

For embroidery, compare the design with the hoop's stitch field. The hoop size guide finds the smallest common hoop that fits, with the design turned if that helps.

  • Universal

    Woven cotton, linen, blends

  • Ballpoint

    Knits and jersey

  • Stretch

    Spandex, swimwear, power mesh

  • Jeans

    Denim, canvas, duck

  • Leather

    Real leather and suede

  • Microtex

    Silk, batik, microfiber

  • Embroidery

    Machine embroidery

Point shape is what makes each needle type different. Size still depends on how heavy the fabric is.

Common mistakes

  • Sewing a whole project, and the next one, on the same needle.
  • Using a universal needle on knits and getting skipped stitches.
  • Reading thread weight like needle size: a 30 wt thread is heavier than a 50 wt.

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