Tool
Needle and thread finder
Choose what you are sewing and how heavy it is. The finder gives the needle type and size range to use and the thread that goes with it.
Short answer
Match the needle type to the fabric and the size to its weight: about 70/10 for light fabric, 80/12 to 90/14 for medium and 100/16 to 110/18 for heavy denim or canvas. Pair it with 50 wt all-purpose polyester for most sewing and 40 wt thread for embroidery and topstitching.
Find your needle
Use this needle
Universal 80/12 to 90/14
Thread
All-purpose 50 wt polyester
Home machines use system 130/705H needles. Some sergers and coverstitch machines need ELx705 or another system, so check the manual.
Needle size by fabric weight
Needle sizes come in pairs. The first number is the European size, the blade diameter in hundredths of a millimeter, so 70/10 is 0.70 mm. The second is the US size. The heavier the fabric, the larger the needle.
Sheer or very light
- Needle size
- 60/8 to 70/10
- Examples
- voile, chiffon, organza
Light
- Needle size
- 70/10 to 75/11
- Examples
- lawn, shirting, lightweight jersey
Medium
- Needle size
- 80/12 to 90/14
- Examples
- quilting cotton, linen, poplin
Medium-heavy
- Needle size
- 90/14 to 100/16
- Examples
- twill, corduroy, light denim
Heavy
- Needle size
- 100/16 to 110/18
- Examples
- heavy denim, canvas, duck
| Fabric weight | Needle size | Examples |
|---|---|---|
| Sheer or very light | 60/8 to 70/10 | voile, chiffon, organza |
| Light | 70/10 to 75/11 | lawn, shirting, lightweight jersey |
| Medium | 80/12 to 90/14 | quilting cotton, linen, poplin |
| Medium-heavy | 90/14 to 100/16 | twill, corduroy, light denim |
| Heavy | 100/16 to 110/18 | heavy denim, canvas, duck |
Needle type and thread by fabric or task
Woven cotton, linen or poly blend
- Needle type
- Universal
- Size
- By fabric weight
- Thread
- All-purpose 50 wt polyester
Silk, microfiber or batik
- Needle type
- Microtex (sharp)
- Size
- 60/8 to 80/12
- Thread
- All-purpose 50 wt polyester
Denim, canvas or duck
- Needle type
- Jeans (denim)
- Size
- 90/14 to 110/18
- Thread
- All-purpose 50 wt polyester; for visible topstitching choose Topstitching below
Knit or jersey
- Needle type
- Ballpoint (jersey)
- Size
- By fabric weight
- Thread
- All-purpose 50 wt polyester
Spandex, swimwear or power mesh
- Needle type
- Stretch
- Size
- 75/11 to 90/14
- Thread
- All-purpose 50 wt polyester
Real leather or suede
- Needle type
- Leather (wedge point)
- Size
- 90/14 to 110/18
- Thread
- Bonded nylon or bonded polyester
Vinyl or faux leather
- Needle type
- Microtex or Leather
- Size
- 80/12 to 90/14
- Thread
- All-purpose 50 wt polyester; bonded nylon or polyester for upholstery vinyl
Quilt piecing
- Needle type
- Quilting or Universal
- Size
- 75/11 to 80/12
- Thread
- 50 wt cotton
Machine quilting through batting
- Needle type
- Quilting
- Size
- 75/11 to 90/14
- Thread
- 50 wt cotton for most quilting; a heavier thread needs a larger needle
Machine embroidery
- Needle type
- Embroidery
- Size
- 75/11 (90/14 for thick fabric or 30 wt thread)
- Thread
- 40 wt rayon or polyester embroidery thread, with 60 wt bobbin thread
Sewing with metallic thread
- Needle type
- Metallic
- Size
- 80/12 to 90/14
- Thread
- Metallic thread on top, regular bobbin thread below
Topstitching with heavy thread
- Needle type
- Topstitch
- Size
- 90/14 to 100/16
- Thread
- 40 wt topstitching or heavy thread
| Fabric or task | Needle type | Size | Thread |
|---|---|---|---|
| Woven cotton, linen or poly blend | Universal | By fabric weight | All-purpose 50 wt polyester |
| Silk, microfiber or batik | Microtex (sharp) | 60/8 to 80/12 | All-purpose 50 wt polyester |
| Denim, canvas or duck | Jeans (denim) | 90/14 to 110/18 | All-purpose 50 wt polyester; for visible topstitching choose Topstitching below |
| Knit or jersey | Ballpoint (jersey) | By fabric weight | All-purpose 50 wt polyester |
| Spandex, swimwear or power mesh | Stretch | 75/11 to 90/14 | All-purpose 50 wt polyester |
| Real leather or suede | Leather (wedge point) | 90/14 to 110/18 | Bonded nylon or bonded polyester |
| Vinyl or faux leather | Microtex or Leather | 80/12 to 90/14 | All-purpose 50 wt polyester; bonded nylon or polyester for upholstery vinyl |
| Quilt piecing | Quilting or Universal | 75/11 to 80/12 | 50 wt cotton |
| Machine quilting through batting | Quilting | 75/11 to 90/14 | 50 wt cotton for most quilting; a heavier thread needs a larger needle |
| Machine embroidery | Embroidery | 75/11 (90/14 for thick fabric or 30 wt thread) | 40 wt rayon or polyester embroidery thread, with 60 wt bobbin thread |
| Sewing with metallic thread | Metallic | 80/12 to 90/14 | Metallic thread on top, regular bobbin thread below |
| Topstitching with heavy thread | Topstitch | 90/14 to 100/16 | 40 wt topstitching or heavy thread |
Universal
Woven cotton, linen, blends
Ballpoint
Knits and jersey
Stretch
Spandex, swimwear, power mesh
Jeans
Denim, canvas, duck
Leather
Real leather and suede
Microtex
Silk, batik, microfiber
Embroidery
Machine embroidery
Thread weight runs the other way
Thread weight numbers go up as the thread gets finer, so 50 wt is finer than 40 wt and 30 wt is heavier again. All-purpose 50 wt polyester suits most garment sewing and knits. Quilters usually piece with 50 wt cotton. Embroidery uses 40 wt rayon or polyester on top with a lighter 60 wt bobbin thread. Heavy topstitching thread needs a topstitch needle, whose eye is large enough for it.
Change the needle when you start a new project or after several hours of sewing, and whenever stitches start skipping. More on the basics in needles, thread and hoops.