Embroidery thread shredding, breaking or snapping needles

Causes in the order to check them

Step 1: needle size and type

Embroidery thread is smooth and fine, and the needle runs at high speed through dense stitching. Embroidery needles have a larger eye and a special scarf that reduces friction on the thread. A 75/11 embroidery needle is the usual choice for 40 wt rayon or polyester. Use 90/14 for thicker thread or heavy fabrics, and a Metallic or Topstitch needle for metallic thread.

Needles wear quickly in embroidery because each design can contain many thousands of stitches. A small burr in the eye is enough to strip thread. Put in a new needle at the first sign of fraying, and change it after any thread nest or hoop strike.

If you use spray adhesive or sticky stabilizer, residue builds up on the needle and drags the thread. Use adhesive sparingly, spray away from the machine, and change or clean the needle when you see residue. Needle choice is covered in depth in the machine embroidery needle guide.

Match needle to thread →

Step 2: thread and thread path

Upper tension that is too tight also strains the thread. Embroidery usually runs with a lighter top tension than regular sewing, so that a little top thread shows on the back. See embroidery machine tension settings and machine embroidery thread weights.

1. 1

   Raise the presser foot, raise the needle and rethread from the spool through every guide and the take-up lever.

2. 2

   Check the spool. Stacked thread, wound straight across, usually feeds best from a vertical pin. Cross-wound thread, wound in an X pattern, usually feeds best from the end of a horizontal pin. Follow your machine's guidance.

3. 3

   Use a spool cap that matches the spool size, and make sure the thread is not catching in the notch at the end of the spool.

4. 4

   Use a thread net on slippery spools that slide down and pool.

5. 5

   Look for thread caught around the spool pin, a guide or the thread cutter.

6. 6

   Try a fresh spool. Old thread dries out and weakens, especially rayon kept in sun or heat.

Step 3: design density and size

A design with too many stitches in a small area forces the needle to pierce the same spots over and over. That cuts the thread already stitched, heats and frays the top thread, and can deflect and break the needle. Dense designs on thin stabilizer also pull and pucker.

Shrinking a design is the most common cause. When a stitch file is reduced without recalculating, the stitch count stays the same and the stitches pack closer. Keep size changes small, about 10 to 20 percent, or resize in software that recalculates density. See Brother embroidery machine file format for more on resizing and converting.

If breaks always happen at the same place in one design but not in others, the design is the likely cause. Stitch it on scrap at its original size to confirm.

Step 4: speed

Most embroidery machines let you lower the maximum speed. Slower stitching reduces heat and friction at the needle and gives the thread time to feed smoothly. It helps most with metallic thread, dense fills, small lettering, caps and thick items like towels.

Lower the speed one step and run the same section again. If the breaks stop, you can try raising it later for simpler designs.

Why needles break during embroidery

Use the trial or trace function to check that the design clears the hoop before you start. Never hold or tug the fabric while the carriage is moving. After a needle break, look for the broken tip under the needle plate and in the bobbin area before you sew again, and check the needle plate for new burrs. Related problems are covered in embroidery machine bird nesting and Brother embroidery machine problems.

• The needle hits the hoop because the design is too close to the edge or the wrong hoop is selected
• The embroidery foot is set too low or is the wrong foot for embroidery
• The needle is not fully inserted or the clamp screw is loose
• Very dense stitching or stacked layers deflect the needle
• Thick items, seams or zippers are in the stitch area
• Fabric is pulled or pushed while the machine is stitching

Note.Turn the machine off before you remove the needle plate to look for a broken needle tip. Wear eye protection if needles are breaking repeatedly, since fragments can fly.

When the machine itself is the cause

If thread still shreds after a new needle, fresh thread, careful rethreading, a known good design and lower speed, inspect the thread path for damage. A needle strike can leave a burr on the needle plate hole, the hook or the presser foot that cuts the thread on every stitch. Run a fingernail gently around the needle plate hole. A rough spot means it needs polishing or replacing.

Repeated needle strikes can also knock the hook timing out, which causes skipped stitches and breaks. That needs a technician. If you run large volumes, a machine built for longer runs may be the better answer; see the best embroidery machines for small business and the best Brother embroidery machines.

See machines for business embroidery →

Frequently asked questions

Why is my embroidery machine shredding thread? The most common causes are a worn or too-small needle, a threading or spool problem, and a design that is too dense. Check them in that order.

Why does machine embroidery thread fray at the needle? The needle eye is too small or has a burr, or adhesive has built up on it. Use a new embroidery needle in the right size.

Why is my embroidery machine breaking needles? Usually the needle hits the hoop or foot, the design is too dense, or the needle is not fully inserted. Check the design position and needle before restarting.

What needle should I use for metallic embroidery thread? Use a Metallic or Topstitch needle, often 80/12 or 90/14, and slow the machine down.