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How to sew leather on a home sewing machine

Published

5/8 in seam allowance

Short answer

Use a leather (wedge point) needle in size 90/14 to 110/18, a stitch length of about 3 to 4 mm, bonded or heavy polyester thread, and a Teflon, roller or walking foot so the leather slides. Hold pieces with clips or tape instead of pins and sew slowly. Most home machines handle thin garment leather and a few layers; thick tooling leather needs an industrial machine.

Machines for this job

All 7 picks compared

Leather looks intimidating, but a home sewing machine can handle a lot of it with the right setup. The keys are a needle that cuts rather than pierces, a foot that does not stick, a longer stitch, and realistic expectations about thickness. This guide covers setup, technique, which leathers work on a home machine, and when you need something stronger. It also covers faux leather and vinyl, which need a slightly different approach. Every machine has its own limits, so check your manual for the maximum needle size and fabric thickness it supports.

What a home machine can and cannot sew

Home machines are built for fabric, and leather is denser and grippier. Thin, soft leathers such as garment lambskin, thin cowhide and suede are usually manageable, including a couple of layers. Heavy duty home machines with stronger motors and metal frames handle more, such as bag seams with a few layers of medium leather.

Thick vegetable-tanned leather for belts, holsters and saddlery is a different job. It needs a walking foot industrial machine, often with a compound or needle feed, a slow servo motor and heavy thread. Forcing a home machine through thick leather can break needles, throw off timing or strain the motor.

  • Garment lambskin, thin cowhide

    Home machine
    Usually fine
    Notes
    Leather needle 90/14, Teflon or walking foot

  • Suede

    Home machine
    Usually fine
    Notes
    Walking foot helps; avoid pressing hard

  • Bags with 2 to 4 layers of medium leather

    Home machine
    Heavy duty home machine
    Notes
    Go slowly; test thickness first

  • Thick tooling leather, belts, holsters

    Home machine
    Not recommended
    Notes
    Industrial walking foot machine

  • Faux leather, vinyl

    Home machine
    Usually fine
    Notes
    Microtex or leather needle 80/12 to 90/14, Teflon or roller foot

See machines for leather →

Needle, thread and stitch settings

A leather needle has a wedge-shaped point that cuts a small slit instead of pushing fibers apart. Use 90/14 for thin leather and 100/16 to 110/18 for heavier pieces, within your machine's limits. For faux leather and vinyl, a Microtex or leather needle in 80/12 to 90/14 works; a leather needle is not needed for fabrics without real hide. The needle and thread finder gives the pairings.

Use strong thread: bonded nylon or polyester for heavier work, or a heavy all-purpose polyester for garment leather. Avoid cotton thread, which can weaken. Set the stitch length to about 3 to 4 mm. Short stitches perforate leather like a tear line and weaken the seam.

  • Universal

    Woven cotton, linen, blends

  • Ballpoint

    Knits and jersey

  • Stretch

    Spandex, swimwear, power mesh

  • Jeans

    Denim, canvas, duck

  • Leather

    Real leather and suede

  • Microtex

    Silk, batik, microfiber

  • Embroidery

    Machine embroidery

Point shape is what makes each needle type different. Size still depends on how heavy the fabric is.

  • Needle

    Starting point
    Leather 90/14 to 110/18 (Microtex 80/12 to 90/14 for vinyl)

  • Thread

    Starting point
    Bonded nylon or polyester, or heavy polyester

  • Stitch length

    Starting point
    About 3 to 4 mm

  • Speed

    Starting point
    Slow; use the hand wheel over thick spots

  • Presser foot

    Starting point
    Teflon, roller or walking foot

Choosing the right presser foot

Leather and vinyl tend to stick to a standard metal foot, which causes uneven stitches and stalls. A Teflon (non-stick) foot glides over the surface. A roller foot has a textured wheel that rolls over the leather. A walking foot feeds the top layer and is good for multiple layers and suede.

If you do not have a special foot, a strip of matte tape on the underside of a regular foot can reduce sticking in a pinch, as long as it does not cover the needle opening. Check your shank type in our presser feet chart before buying a foot.

Step by step: sewing a leather seam

  1. 1

    Test on scraps of the same leather and the same number of layers first.

  2. 2

    Install a new leather needle and thread the machine with the presser foot raised.

  3. 3

    Hold pieces together with sewing clips, binder clips or double-sided tape. Pins leave permanent holes.

  4. 4

    Lengthen the stitch to about 3 to 4 mm and set a slow speed.

  5. 5

    Start a short way in from the edge and turn the hand wheel for the first stitches over thick spots.

  6. 6

    Sew slowly and steadily without pulling or pushing the leather.

  7. 7

    Avoid heavy backstitching. Leave long thread tails and tie them off on the back instead.

  8. 8

    Finger press or use a mallet and roller to flatten seams; glue seam allowances if needed.

Note.Every needle hole in leather is permanent. You cannot unpick a seam without leaving holes, so test and plan before you sew.

Troubleshooting leather sewing

For skipped stitches in general, see why your sewing machine is skipping stitches. If needles keep snapping, see sewing machine needle keeps breaking.

  • Skipped stitches

    Likely cause
    Wrong or dull needle, leather sticking
    Fix
    New leather needle, Teflon or roller foot

  • Machine stalls

    Likely cause
    Too thick, too fast
    Fix
    Reduce layers, use hand wheel, check machine limits

  • Needle breaks

    Likely cause
    Needle too small or leather pulled
    Fix
    Larger needle, let the machine feed

  • Uneven stitch length

    Likely cause
    Foot sticking
    Fix
    Non-stick or walking foot

  • Seam tears out

    Likely cause
    Stitch too short
    Fix
    Lengthen to 3 to 4 mm

When to upgrade your machine

If you regularly sew bags, upholstery or several layers of leather, a heavy duty home machine with a stronger motor and metal frame is a good next step; see our best heavy duty sewing machines. For thick leather work, an industrial walking foot machine is the right tool. These need a table, a servo motor and space; our best industrial sewing machines for a home studio covers what to consider.

Frequently asked questions

Can a regular sewing machine sew leather? Yes, for thin and medium leathers in a few layers, with a leather needle, longer stitch and non-stick or walking foot. Thick leather needs a heavier machine.

What needle do I use for leather? A leather needle with a wedge point, size 90/14 for thin leather and 100/16 to 110/18 for heavier pieces, within your machine's limits.

Can I use pins on leather? Avoid them. Pins leave permanent holes. Use clips, tape or a light glue to hold pieces.

Do I need a leather needle for faux leather? Not usually. A Microtex or sharp needle in 80/12 to 90/14 works well on vinyl and faux leather.

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